29/01/2022
On an island as small as Malta and with development taking up a good third of the land area, one might think that secluded rural regions are a thing of the past.
Fortunately not quite.
Here and there one finds pockets of a laid back and more tranquil lifestyle where time really seems to have stood still forever.
The rural enclave of Mtaħleb in the island’s remote western area is perhaps the loveliest such settlement in Malta.
IN THIS PHOTO
This country road is found behind the church.
Scenes of rural Maltese vernacular habitats are a heritage in our landscape, and this area fits that category, with the country road lined with traditional rubble walls (‘ħitan tas-sejjieħ’) and a farmhouse with animal feeding mangers that dates back hundreds of years
A CHURCH EVERY DAY
Religion has dominated the history and landscape of Malta ever since the first people came to the islands.
Malta is said to have a church for every day of the year, which gives you an idea of the importance of religion in this country on the traces of the apostle St. Paul.
THE MTAĦLEB CHURCH
The church of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary at Mtaħleb still serves the needs of this small rural community, some two miles outside of Rabat, Malta.
The present construction dates from 1656, with notable additions coming later, including the small dome and belfry.
MTAĦLEB VALLEY
The church sits strategically at the edge of Mtaħleb valley – one of the most scenic in the islands.
Taking time to explore the valley via a small road to the left of the church is a must and a rewarding experience.
MORE PHOTOS
More of Kappa Vision’s photos of the church can be viewed at the following link: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.208219643993186&type=3
MTAĦLEB IS MADE OF THIS
Situated some four kilometers outside Rabat, the tiny population of Mtaħleb is spread out over the few farm houses which dot the valley below the upper line of cliffs and a concentration of a few abodes around the small church, which is the area’s only significant man-made landmark.
ON THE EDGE
The small church itself seems to hang precariously on the upper cliff edge while below it spreads a lovely valley amid a couple of hillocks. The sheltered valley is a very fertile one with a plentiful supply of water and the fields stretch from below the upper line of cliffs almost to the edge of the lower seaboard ones.
A MAZE OF PATHS AND A (DUBIOUS) LEGEND
There is a maze of small paths and byways to explore and just one paved road that goes all the way to the sea cliffs. This road goes past the church and then descends sharply to the area known as Miġra l-Ferħa – traditionally held as the spot where Count Roger landed in 1091 and liberated the islands for Christianity from their Arab rulers. This is highly dubious – Miġra l-Ferħa is a deep ravine, and although it does offer the only access to the shore in the sheer wall of cliffs by means of a rock-hewn set of stairs, one can hardly picture a Norman prince coming to the island in such an undignified manner!
A SCENIC AREA
From the improvised car park at Miġra l-Ferħa one can follow the line of cliffs eastwards for about two kilometres. This is a highly scenic area with the sea and the cliffs to one side and the hillside to the other.
At a curve in the cliffs and visible from land there is a sea cave known as Għar id-Dwieb – from here there is a path which climbs back to the church if one wants to make a circular route.
Alternatively one can easily walk back to the small car park - a route that is highly recommended since the views are so exceptional.
The seaboard path carries on for some time past the bend in the cliffs up to a point where the path is bordered by two large boulders – this is the signal to turn back since the path then becomes dodgy and strays into private land.
HOW TO BEST GET THERE
Mtaħleb cannot be reached by public transport and is itself more than an hour’s walk from Rabat, so a car is essential to get you there and makes exploring this lovely area all that much easier.
The steep road going down to the cliffs mentioned earlier is a popular venue for Sunday car climb events, so Sundays are best avoided.
BEST TIME TO GO THERE
Sunny winter days bring out the best of the Mtaħleb area – and sunny winter days are (not surprisingly) a very frequent occurrence in Malta.
Photo Copyright © Kappa Vision / Jean-Paul Borg.
References:
- Chevron .co .uk.
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