Whispering Ruins

Exploring

Within the regal confines of Jaipur, the meticulous upkeep of its architectural heritage, in this context the gateways, underscores the importance of safeguarding cultural legacy.. Each gateway serves not only as a physical entry point but also as a symbol of the city's cultural legacy, meticulously maintained to retain its grandeur through the ages.

In juxtaposition, Lucknow, bearing scars from the tumultuous events of the Mutiny, presents a contrasting tableau. Here, the neglect of its gateways speaks volumes, quietly echoing the enduring ramifications of historical upheaval. These architectural marvels, once emblematic of Lucknow's grandeur, now bear witness to a gradual erosion of memory and significance.

The disparity in the maintenance of heritage between Jaipur and Lucknow highlights the complexities of historical preservation and the enduring impact of historical events on cultural landscapes.

I had accidentally discovered it during one of my causal walks in the by-lanes of Old Lucknow.

The 'Irshad Clock Tower' is located near the City railway station [not Lucknow main station]. There is an emotional story behind its construction.

Khan Bahadur Nawab Syed Hamid Husain Khan had built this tower in memory of his son, Nawab Syed Irshad Husain Khan, who died at a young age.

This beautiful structure that immortalizes a father's affection for his son was constructed almost ninety years ago.

The other aim behind the construction of this clock tower was that citizens should be able to know correct time and the Namazis could also offer prayers on time.

In the photograph, one can clearly read the words 'Irshad Clock Tower' and 'Hamid Park' written in bold letters just below the dial.
he tower is located in the midst of the park, which is not visible from this angle in the photograph. It was an imported clock brought from London. Hamid Husain Khan was a talluqadar and chairman of Lucknow municipal board during British era.

Even today the family members residing in Saltanat Manzil including Professor Nawab Syed Ali Hamid [grandson of Khan Bahadur], Begam Nazima Raza [great granddaughter] and Nawabzada Syed Masoom Raza spend a particular sum annually for maintenance.

When the clock stopped for the first time in 1980, the repairers from Bareilly were called a large amount was paid to restore it. Parts of the clock machinery aren't available any longer. Still, a person has been given the job of basic upkeep, which is a great initiative.
Though the family has been undertaking maintenance of the clock tower and has called repairers from outside in the past, the building needs conservation and authorities' attention.

However, there is no effort on part of government or civic authorities regarding the restoration. But that's the story of most of the clock towers.

As far as Husainabad Clock Tower is concerned, the local authorities including Shia Waqf Board and municipal corporation seem to be taking some initiatives.

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Take a Look Before it's Gone
This is the Gateway of Butler Palace in Lucknow. Butler Palace came into inception in 1915 with its foundation laid by Raja of Mehmoodabad. It was meant to be the official residence of Sir Spencer Harcourt Butler - the Deputy Commisioner of Avadh and hence the name. While the original plan was meant to have have 3 palaces but flooding in Gomti put a spanner in it and only 1 could be completed. The one palace, that was built, has been in dire straits for some time now.
This gateway would have lead to the palace once but not anymore.

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The late Mughal style mosque in Residency of Lucknow stands apart from all the other monuments in the complex which are built in european style

The mosque built during the age of Nawab Nasir ud din Haider stands adjacent to a roofless Imambara and Begum Kothi . The excellent stucco work on its facade stands in contrast to the marks of 1857 war left on its dome.

This is a mosque is the only building in the Residency Lucknow complex whose ceilings are still intact. The Imambara is completely destroyed, but the mosque is still in a living state. The damaged part of the mosque has been kept uptight with iron support.

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A narrow, winding passage near the Golaganj vegetable market leads to a nearly obscure royal edifice — the tomb of Janab-e-Alia, the Hindu wife of Nawab of Awadh Shuja-ud-Daula — which is now but a crumbling structure.
It is believed she was responsible for the construction of Naya Hanuman Mandir in Aliganj. She had prayed to Lord Hanuman for a child. So when her prayer was heard, she built the temple.

If one looks closely at the magnificent craftsmanship of the tomb, which was raised by Alia’s son Nawab Saadat Ali Khan, there is no doubt it was once an important part of Lucknow’s identity.
Engraved with verses from the Quran, the tomb comprises a basement, a floor with the Begum’s grave, an upper floor with a non-pivotal cenotaph and the top floor with a cluster of cupolas and dome. It is the only structure in the country with a turban-shaped dome, better known as the pagdar dome.
But, neglect over the years has left the mausoleum in bad shape. Creepers have taken over the structure, defacement is rife and unabated encroachment is sounding the death knell.

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Source: https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/lucknow/run-down-tomb-of-begum-who-built-hanuman-temple-cries-for-attention/articleshow/69419366.cms

Maqbara of Avadh's prime minister Hakim Mehendi Ali Khan.

Hakim Mehendi was the finance minister of Nawab Saadat Ali Khan. He became prime minister of Avadh during the regime of King Ghaziuddin Haider. A descendent of Buhran-ul-Mulk, Avadh's first nawab, roots of this family belong to Shia Imam Moosi-ye-Kazim. The Maqbara was built by his nephew Munnawar-ud-Daulah, who also rose to the level of a minister of Avadh and is buried in the same premises.

The Maqbara came into existence as a fall-out of the rift between Hakim Mehendi Khan and King Ghaziuddin Haider. It is said that during the great famine of 18th century, the king forced the minister to collect tax which was opposed by Hakim Mehendi. But Mehendi's opposition could not stand for long. He collected the revenue unwillingly. But 17 persons died in the process. Hurt over this, he refused to accept his share in the revenue generated.

Despite this, the king earmarked the sum forcibly in the minister's name. Hakim saahab consulted his religious teacher on `what to do of the money'. The maulvi suggested the formation of a waqf to support families of the victims who had died in the bloodshed. But before the formalities were completed, he passed away.

Heavily encroached upon, decayed, and neglected, it bears the scars of time and human indifference. Instead of being cherished as a cultural treasure, it is tragically misused and overlooked, its significance fading amidst the chaos of modernity.

Source: https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/lucknow/a-grave-error/articleshow/4012499.cms

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Over a thousand years ago, an individual shaped wet clay into rectangular blocks, fired them in a brick kiln, and allowed the heat to harden them into bricks. This isn't merely a tale of imagination; it's a tangible reality found in Bhitargaon, approximately 50 kilometers from Kanpur city. The Bhitargaon Temple stands proudly at the same spot where it was constructed during the Gupta period in 5th century, defying the passage of time and surviving more than fifteen centuries of human settlement surrounding it.

It is considered to be one of the oldest surviving examples of the Nagara style of temple architecture. The temple stands almost seventy feet in height with a tapering shikhara fifty feet tall — almost twice that of the base. It is constructed almost entirely from brick and mud mortar with detailed terracotta sculptures in the niches on the outer walls. The wide range of deities represented has resulted in some uncertainty about the dedication of the temple, but the sculpture of Varaha at the center of the west wall has led scholars to conjecture that the temple was dedicated to Vishnu.

Today, much of the structure is in ruins, with the larger panels and the faces of the sculptures damaged beyond recognition. Some of the sculptures have been preserved at the Indian Museum at Kolkata. The temple has also diminished in size owing to the erosion of several centimetres of the brick over the years. It is a protected monument under the Archaeological Survey of India, which has undertaken several restoration projects of the temple since the nineteenth century, with some panels being completely replaced in the process.

Soruce: https://www.indiaheritagewalks.org/architectural-stroll-marvel-terracotta-bhitargaon-temple

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Bibiyapur Kothi stands as a testament to the opulence and grandeur of bygone eras. Built by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula on the right bank of river Gomti in the 18th century, this double-storeyed structure exudes splendor with its Lakhauri brick construction, adorned with intricate lime plaster and striking blue tiles imported from France. Combining influences from both Awadhi and French architectural styles, the structure is believed to have been designed by Swiss adventurer and soldier Antoine Polier, showcasing elements of neo-classical design. The construction is splendid and grand with big halls having high roof ceilings, the serpentine (spiral) staircase (most probably the first of its kind in India), wooden beams, and rafters. The Kothi has the striking French influence in the form of the blue coloured tiles that were brought from France. NawabAsaf-ud-Daula is said to have used the Kothi as a country residence and a place for hunting. The Kothi also served as the venue of various celebrations and feasts that were hosted by the Nawabs for their British guests.

Bibiyapur kothi is also known as the place where the Nawab Saadat Ali Khan was crowned as the king by the British, after the demise of Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula. During the British rule, the Kothi witnessed various lavish celebrations mostly by the British Army officials.
Once a vibrant hub of celebrations and feasts, hosting British dignitaries and serving as a country retreat for the Nawabs, Bibiyapur Kothi now lies in a state of disrepair, a shadow of its former glory.

The neglect of Bibiyapur Kothi is a tragic reflection of our collective failure to preserve our cultural heritage. Despite being under the protection of the Archaeological Survey of India since 1917 this architectural marvel has been left to decay, its once-majestic halls now echoing with the whispers of neglect.

The ravages of time have taken their toll on Bibiyapur Kothi, with crumbling walls and deteriorating interiors bearing witness to years of neglect and indifference. The serpentine staircase, a marvel of architectural innovation, now stands as a silent reminder of a glorious past fading into oblivion.

Even though the residence is currently administered by the Indian Army, its gates are still open to general public to explore secrets and narratives from the 18th century. so, when are you planning to visit this architectural splendor?

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Did you know that Roshanara, the younger daughter of Shahjahan and sister of Jahanara, had a remarkable talent for design? Roshanara, the younger daughter of Shahjahan and sister of Jahanara, patronized the construction of a magnificent Mughal-style garden which is located in Delhi's Shakti Nagar.

Roshanara Begum laid the foundation for both the garden and the tomb back in 1650, but today, only her tomb stands as a relic. This garden was Roshanara’s offering, a reflection of her lineage as the daughter of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan.

Despite her initial intention for it to be a pleasure retreat, the garden became her final resting place as well, with her burial site situated in the central pavilion. Remarkably, there is no headstone marking her grave within the garden. While the garden currently only houses the tomb, a 17th-century eastern gateway, and a water channel, the other structures have fallen into obscurity over the years for lack of proper care and maintenance.

Although the tomb is under the protection of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), it has suffered significant damage. Despite sporadic attempts at repairs over time, these efforts have been ineffective in halting the general decline of both the tomb and its surroundings. Officials have stated that there are currently no immediate plans for the comprehensive conservation of the entire complex. The elaborate garden itself is frequented by locals and other visitors, but the decrepit tomb of its patron continues to stay neglected. Begum’s grave rests in the middle of the 57-acre garden and the tomb has a central hall with open courtyards on four sides.

Delhi boasts of many gardens. Some of them are huge and others are intimate and small. Some of them are manicured to perfection, while others are neglected and unkempt. Roshanara Bagh falls somewhere in between but requires our attention. Despite being a protected monument under the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), Roshanara Bagh has been left to wither away, its historical significance fading with each passing day.

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brings you the once grand Zeenat Mahal palace in Delhi's Lal Kuan is a faded shadow of its former glory. Built in 1846, it was a beauty in its prime, but neglect has taken its toll. Though stories claim it was a sight to behold, today only the main entrance, some arched sections, and the outer wall remain.

This forgotten monument, named after the favorite wife of the last Mughal emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar, now houses a girls' school in one part. Sadly, the rest has been taken over by laundrymen (dhobis) and squatters.

Constructed in 1846 on the orders of the beloved wife of Bahadur Shah Zafar. Zeenat Mahal was the youngest queen of Bahadur Shah Zafar (1775-1862), the last of the Mughal Emperors. He was infatuated by his beautiful wife and built this palace at a great expense to commemorate his beloved. Presently, in the back lanes of Chandni Chowk, the structure lies in the ruins of a forgotten memory and prestige and barely of any significance. In its glorious days, the palace was spread over a large 4-acre plot with fountains, huge cellars and arched rooms.

The palace later served as one of the many quarters owned by the Maharaja of Patiala. The palace was sold to the government after independence and the land was acquired by the Directorate of Education around 1964. The historical building was completely demolished in the 1970s except the main entrance, and now stands the Sarvodaya Kanya Vidyalaya where once stood a beautiful palace.
Within a kilometer, the whole of Chandi Chowk was revamped. but this palace was neglected. All that's left of Zeenat Mahal is a crumbling shell. The fancy facade and outer wall are barely hanging on, covered in cobwebs and a sad reminder of its former beauty. The rusty iron gates hint at a grand size, maybe 100 meters long and even deeper. Inside, though, things are a bit more interesting. The intricate brick dome is still holding strong, and a creaky iron staircase spirals up to the first floor. Sadly, the once-majestic palace is now filled with shops and storage spaces.

The memorial to a once gallant queen and freedom fighter that opened the doors of the Red Fort to the rebel sepoys from Meerut on the morning of May 11, 1857, should be honored as she was known for – for her beauty, brains and courage. And so should the mahal that stands in shadows.

This neglected haveli serves as a stark reminder to preserve our past. Its grand doorway, now swallowed by a makeshift neighborhood, stands as a symbol of what neglect can do. We hope, both the ASI (Archaeological Survey of India) and local authorities will finally take action to protect this historical treasure.

My dedication to documenting the overlooked and fading heritage of Delhi led me to Kalu Sarai last weekend after I read an article about its condition. Kalu Sarai, to the casual observer, is renowned as the IIT coaching hub of Delhi, bustling with numerous coaching centers. Amidst the fervor to secure spots in India's top colleges, there lies a nearly 700-year-old mosque in a state of utter disrepair. This was what drew me to the area.

Known as Kalu Sarai Masjid, it dates back to the reign of Firoz Shah Tughlaq. Accroding to the residents, His minister, Junan Shah Tilangani constructed this, he was a prolific builder, with many of his constructions such as Begumpuri Masjid, Khirki Masjid, and Kalan Masjid still standing in respectable condition. However, Kalu Sarai Masjid is in the worst condition among all his creations.

The mosque, now abandoned, is surrounded on all four sides and entirely occupied by locals. They have not only constructed rooms within it but also built toilets. Moreover, they keep a check on anyone attempting to photograph the mosque.

With this knowledge in mind, approaching the mosque from the front would be both futile and perilous. Thus, I sought assistance from a nearby coaching center, hoping its rooftop would provide access. Fortunately, my gamble paid off. The door atop the building was open, allowing me to capture some photographs of the monument from above. The space between the domes was being utilized to dry clothes.

This decades old monument endured earthquakes, wars, invasions, neglect, and decay, yet it couldn't withstand the challenges brought about by post-independence urbanization.

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This , let's remember, Maham Anaga.
Very few residents of modern Delhi realize that opposite the National Zoological Gardens and entrance to Purana Qila lies a monument built by a woman immortalized for being power-hungry, treacherous, deceitful and scheming, but without whom the Mughal Empire might never have blossomed as it did after her death.

In the mid-16th CE, Maham Anga was the power behind the Mughal throne, a Turkish nurse who took care of Akbar from the time he was a child. She wielded significant influence during a crucial time. One example of her power is the Khair-ul-Manzil complex she built, a mosque and Madrasa complex. It was built on a spot which showcases Anga’s ambitions – directly opposite the entrance to Mughal Emperor Humayun’s Dinpanah Fort (Purana Qila) and right next to the immense gateway built by Emperor Sher Shah Suri, known as the Lal Darwaza.

The mosque has an unusual upper story of classrooms and a courtyard enclosed within a high screen, which suggests the madrasa was meant for girls and the mosque for women only, which does not exist today; though the prayer chamber continues to be used each Friday for namaaz offerings.
The main doorway has flashes of red sandstone for effect. The main courtyard contains a pool which must have once been filled with water for wazu or ritual cleansing. There are no minarets, but from what little remains of the main facade of the mosque, it seems to have been decorated in blue tiles and blue-and-yellow mosaic patterns akin to those found in Central Asia, along with extensive calligraphy.

Maham Anga’s rise to power started decades before she was able to start construction of Khair-ul-Manzil. Her story would not be out of place in a Game of Thrones episode.

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