27/09/2026
One of the most beautiful examples of Zimmermann's revivalist jewelry is an Etruscan-style necklace, consisting of gold wrapped wire with shattuckite pendants and coral beads. The work recalls various settings of Favrile glass beetles by Louis C. Tiffany, but the form of Zimmermann's necklace is closer to ancient Etruscan precedents than to Tiffany's Egypt. Zimmermann's design is of uncommon restraint and uncompromising refinement. Its contrasts of blue and orange are subtle and controlled; its rhythms of alternating ovals of varying sizes, beading and gold rope filigree are elegant and effective. The result is ravishing. The necklace stands as one of Zimmermann's greatest accomplishments, combining historicist and forward-looking impulses in a unified work of art.
Necklace. Gold, shattuckite and coral (43 cm).
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Gift of Jacqueline Loewe Fowler, 2011.
From "The Jewelry and Metalwork of Marie Zimmermann" by Waters, Cunningham, Barnes, and Ahara.
Photo by David Cole, American Decorative Art 1900 Foundation.